Zum Valentinstag: Die Luft ist weich – die Sonne wärmt – die Herzen schlagen im Gleichtakt. Es geht bald wieder los: Menschen trauen sich den Bund des Lebens einzugehen. Es ist Hochzeitszeit. „Sie“- die Braut – ist was den klassischen Wonderland-Wedding-Dream in Weiß und Co betrifft in den zahlreichen Hochzeitsläden gut aufgehoben. Aber auch der zukünftige Gatte sollte doch auf Augenhöhe, in einem perfekt sitzenden Anzug aus edlem Tuch an ihrer Seite strahlen. Sie zum Glänzen zu bringen, ohne selbst in minderwertigen Mischgarntextilien zu glänzen oder gar zu schwitzen … Der Maßanzug für den großen Tag sollte ebenso seine Persönlichkeit widerspiegeln, elegant und zeitlos sein und auch nach der Hochzeit ein gutes Stück bleiben. Aber keines, dass im Schrank vermottet, sondern den glücklichen Gatten weiterhin, nachhaltig durchs Leben begleitet. Er sollte sich so mit seinem Anzug identifiziert, dass er ihn jahrelang zu besonderen oder gar alltäglichen Anlässen oder zum semiotisch auf Kompetenz und Stil codierten Businesstermin tragen.
Wir empfehlen für diesen männlichen Spezial-Fall ohne Umwege die wohl beste Adresse in Sachen feinem Zwirn und individuell adaptierter Passform aufzusuchen:
So let´s go to ANDREWS & MARTINS – die erste Adresse in der City West:
Der Name klingt very britisch, ist aber nicht in London oder Milano, sondern etwas versteckt in einem Hinterhof in Berlin-Wilmersdorf, verortet. In seinem schicken Maßatelier mit Kamin, Whiskyregal und zentraler Edelledersitzecke berät der zertifizierte Maßkonfektionär Andreas M. Weidlich jeden seiner Kunden noch höchstpersönlich. Ob es sich dabei um eine Persönlichkeit aus Politik oder Wirtschaft handelt, ist für den Berliner dabei nicht relevant. Es sind alles Menschen, die 100% stilvoll und individuell gekleidet sein möchten – oder sich für den besonderen Anlass wappnen möchten. Mit Maßband und sicherem Geschmacksempfinden verhilft „Sir Andrew“ seinen Kunden zu Anzügen in exakter Passform und hoch qualitativer Verarbeitung – und dies nachhaltig Made in Germany. Seine hochwertigen Stoffe bezieht er aus den besten Webereien Englands und Italiens. Durch seine über 11-Jährige Erfahrung genießt er bei den internationalen High-End Zulieferern wie z.B. Ariston, Dormeuil, Holland & Sherry, Piacenza, Cerruti, Scabal oder Ermenegildo Zegna einen Vertrauenszuschuss. Der galante und leidenschaftliche Maß-Konfektionär hat das Privileg die Stoffe in sogenannten „Bundles“ – kleine Stoffmuster-Ballen und nicht am Meter zu beziehen. Das erlaubt ihm eine Auf-Lager-Auswahl von über 10.000 verschiedenen Stoffen (50% Italien / 50 % England) in Petto zu haben. Die Kunden sollte man nicht überfordern – aber das Sichten von bis zu 60 Stoffen verkraften sie durchaus. 30 neue Edel-Textil-Bündeln erhält Weidlich pro Saison, die inhaliere und verinnerliche er jedes Mal mit Freude und präsentiere sie dem Kunden passgerecht zu dessen Persönlichkeit und Körperform. Dieser muss sich am Ende nur noch ganz geschmeidig zwischen übersichtlich zusammengestellten Modulen entscheiden.
Und wenn „Mann“ den perfekten Anzug für spezielle Anlässe wie die eigene Hochzeit sucht, steht Andreas M. Weidlich ihm mit einer großen Auswahl zur Seite. Dieser rät nicht unbedingt zum oftmals angefragten klassischen Cutaway, Smoking oder Frack in traurigem Schwarz. Bei einer Hochzeitsfeier, die mit der morgendlichen Trauung beginnt und mit einem Ball endet, würde der Bräutigam bis 18 Uhr einen Cut tragen und sich zum Abendessen und anschließendem Tanz in einen Frack (wenn es sehr elegant sein soll) oder Smoking umkleiden müssen. Eine bessere Alternative stelle da doch ein schicker Maßanzug dar, der nicht ganz so elegant, aber dafür ganztägig einsetzbar sei. Ausgefallene Jahreszeitangemessene Stoffe, Schnitte, Muster und – why not – auch dezente Farben stehen zur Auswahl. Gerade im Sommer sind Pastelltöne wie ein frisches Hellblau, Rosé oder Mintgrün à la mode. Auch die Kombination aus farbigem Sakko und dunkler Hose kann edel aussehen. Mit 100 Kragenformen und Knöpfen kann sich der Kunde nach seinen eigenen Wünschen sein individuelles Outfit von very klassisch Englisch bis zu Italienisch modern – oder beides als perfekt akzentuierter Synergieeffekt – zusammenstellen. Und das von Kopf bis Fuß: Ergänzt wird sein Sortiment durch Maßhemden, Krawatten, Schleifen, Plastrons, Einstecktüchlein, Manschettenknöpfen, Westen und sogar A& M Maßschuhe aus Belgien. Der diplomierte Betriebswirtschaftler und ehemalige Coach für Unternehmensentwicklung versteht etwas von konsequenter Marken-Auratisierung. Das A&M Embleme versteckt sich dabei im Innenleben der Jacketts oder prangt als klassisches Logo oben auf Knöpfen und anderen Accessoires.
Und jetzt zum Ablauf… Ein wichtiger Punkt für den aufgeregten Bräutigam-Kunden: Der Beratungs- und Maßtermin im Atelier beginnt entspannt mit einem guten Kaffee oder English Tea. Das Male Wedding-Date sollte idealerweise 8-10 Wochen vor dem Hochzeitstermin vereinbart werden. Einen guten Freund, den Trauzeugen oder die Verlobte (aber nicht die Schwiegermutter!) zum Termin mitzubringen ist eine weitere Empfehlung. Dem gesellschaftlichen Anlass entsprechend bietet der Gentleman-Kenner Weidlich sogar auf Wunsch auch noch eine „Etikette-Beratung“ (der wird neuerdings auch gern als Workshop für ganze Unternehmen gebucht) an. Seine Beratung erschöpft sich eben nicht bei der Auswahl des richtigen Stoffes oder der richtigen Kragenform, er möchte mit seinem Stilgefühl jedem Mann bei seinem Auftritt als weltgewandter Gentleman unterstützen. Und der zeigt sich wie so oft im Detail: vom glänzend gesäumten Knopfloch bis zur exakten Rückenlänge eines Sakkos, vom 1 cm aus dem Sakko heraus zu sehenden Hemd bis zum eleganten Knick des Hosenbeines auf dem Schuh offenbart sich wahrer Stil – viel mehr als beim Tragen kurzlebiger Fashiontrends, die der Figur womöglich wenig schmeicheln. Lange kamen die meisten seiner Kunden zu ihm, weil sie trotz zu breiter Schultern, zu viel Bauch oder zu kurzer Beine korrekt gekleidet sein wollten. Zunehmend freut sich Sir Andrew auch über modebewusste (bis hippe) Menschen, die ihre Individualität durch maßgeschneiderte Kleidung unterstreichen möchten. Leisten können sich seine Anzüge nämlich auch Manager und „Privatmänner“ jenseits der Vorstandsebene: Eine kleine Maßkonfektion gibt es bereits ab 600 Euro, die große mit mehr Maßen ab 800 Euro. Je nach Stoff und Modell geht der Preis bis zu einer Obergrenze von 8.000 € (Generell rechnet man für einen Hochzeitsanzug so viel für ein Brautkleid -das ist Gender!). Das passende Maß Hemd liegt im mittleren Bereich bei 150 Euro. Nach dem Maßnehmen liegt die Hochzeitsgarderobe dann nach 3 Wochen zur Anprobe bereit. Im integrierten Schneideratelier werden die Änderungen und Anpassungen direkt von den A&M Mitarbeitern vorgenommen. Alleiniger Ansprechpartner aber bleibt Signor Weidlich.
Und wie kam eigentlich Herr Weidlich auf den Anzug – die Erfindung King Edward des 7.? Das Bewusstsein für klassisch-elegante Mode habe er vom Vater – einem Handelsvertreter mit Sitz am feinen Ku´damm – geerbt. Im Keller stehe noch sein Reiseschrank. Jeden Tag trug der Vater einen anderen Anzug. Weidlichs erstes Maßhemd-Set (very american gab´s die Hemden nicht einzeln zu kaufen) kaufte er 1986 als junger Mann in der New Yorker 5th Avenue. 2009 folgte er dann endgültig seiner Leidenschaft, stieg aus seinem Job als Berater aus und eröffnete das Maßatelier ANDREWS & MARTIN.
Um über so lange Zeit im ruhigen Seitenflügel der Uhlandstraße 158 entdeckt und treu frequentiert zu werden spricht für Qualität – nicht nur die der Maßkonfektion, sondern auch die von Charisma und Persönlichkeit, Beratungstalent und Empathie eines Sir Andrew für einen sehr anspruchsvollen Kunden, der genau weiß was er will oder sacht an die Hand genommen werden muss.
Und good news for the ladies: ANDREWS & MARTINS hat auch für die Businesslady einiges im Repertoire: und auch die Damenwelt kann sich vom maßgeschneiderten Anzug, Blazer, Kostüm oder Bluse ein komplettes Outfit schneidern lassen und durch hochwertige Capes und Jacken ergänzen. Besonders gefragt ist das signature piece der Kollektion, ein hochwertiges Etuikleid, das in Berlin nach den individuellen Wünschen der Kundin maßangefertigt wird. A & M fertigt auch Maßkonfektionierte Chinos und Jeans, damit sich das exzellente Tragegefühl der ANDREWS & MARTINS Businesskleidung auch im Freizeitbereich fortsetzt. UND: Man muss ja auch nicht gleich heiraten, um sich ein echtes – übrigens ausschließlich im Wilmersdorfer Atelier zu erwerbendes – Kleidungsstück zu gönnen.
Im Juni feiert das Salon-Atelier sein 11-jähriges Jubiläum. Congratulations!
Text: Anke Sademann
Alle Fotos: Anke Sademann
Alle Infos: www.andrews-martin.de
Adresse:
ANDREWS & MARTIN / Andreas M. Weidlich
Uhlandstraße 158 in Berlin-Wilmersdorf
Kernöffnungszeiten Dienstag bis Freitag 15.00 bis 18.00 Uhr
samstags ab 11.00 Uhr.
Termine zum Maßnehmen nach Vereinbarung unter Tel.: 030-663 04 616
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