Château Calissanne eröffnet Fachgeschäft für Weine und Olivenöle
Farben und Geschmäcker aus der Provence mitten in der City West – die können doch eigentlich nur Glücksgefühle und sonnige Gedanken auslösen. Wer das urbane Winter-Grau satt hat, der tauche ein in das Universum des südfranzösischen Schloss von Calissanne. Das französische Traditionsweingut hat in der Fasanenstraße in Charlottenburg seine erste Europaniederlassung für Weine und Olivenöle aus eigener Produktion eröffnet. Nur wenige Schritte vom Ku’Damm entfernt, empfängt Dominique Parisi Weinkenner, Genussexperten und Berliner Menschen, die zu den Feiertagen einen wirklich, aber so wirklich guten Tropfen empfohlen bekommen möchten.
Charmant: Dominique Parisi (Weinberater)
Der Wein-erfahrene, charmante Deutsch-Franzose sieht sich schon fast ein bisschen als Missionar, seinen Kunden zur Fachberatung auch einen weinselig-freudigen Entspannungseffekt mit auf den Weg zu geben. „Weine sind dafür da im richtigen Moment, mit den richtigen Menschen getrunken und ritualisiert zu werden. Wein trinken sollte bei allem Etiketten-Klisché vor allem Spaß machen“.
Sophie Kessler-Matière (Winzerin und Schlossherrin du Château Calissanne) mit Monsieur Parisi
Der geräumige, helle Laden, in denen warme Holz- und Rottöne dominieren, hat ein emotionales Raumkonzept. Das Blau und die Sonne der Provence, das von den Wänden strahlt, vermischt sich mit den Bildern des Weingutes und seiner Entourage, die als Landschaftsimpressionen über einige Screens flimmern. Früher war Calissanne eine Festung und das imposante „Oppidum von Konstantin“, überragt das Weingut und dessen nördlichen Schutzwall, der im 1. Jahrhundert nach J. Chr. von den Römern in Stand gesetzt wurde. Mit den Flugbildern über die Weinberge und dem weiten Blick über das sonnenverwöhnte Naturareal wird der Kunde mitten im Herzen Berlins auf eine Reise nach Südfrankreich abgeholt, die zum Verweilen einlädt. „Die Rottöne geben die typische Farbe der Felsen wieder, die das Weingut in Callissane umgeben“, so Schlossherrin Sophie Kessler-Matière, die das Rot auch für die Etikettierung ihrer Produkte ausgewählt hat. Nach dem Tod ihres deutschen Mannes Philippe produziert Madame Sophie nun schon seit 10 Jahren die Weine des Château Calissanne (mit der geschützten Herkunftsbezeichnung „AOP Côteaux d’Aix en Provence“) und „La Clef de St Thomas“ (mit der kontrollierten Herkunftsbezeichnung „AOC Château-neuf du Pape“) in Eigenregie.
Dieses Rot, das neuerdings so kräftig in der gediegenen Fasanenstrasse leuchtet, hat Kraft und bereitet nicht nur auf den vollmundigen Geschmack von Rotweinen vor. Zu erwähnen sei trotzdem gleich der prämierte Ausnahmewein „Rocher Rouge“ aus der Mourvèdre Traube, der mit einem kräftigen Geschmack aus Tabaknoten, Zeder und Weihrauch daherkommt. Seine Anbaufläche ist ein Mysterium – ein geheimer Ort, der nur Eingeweihten bekannt ist. Dieser Hot-Spot-Wein ist ein perfekter Begleiter für die anstehenden Feiertage und passt zum üppigen Festmahl mit Freunden und Familie. Die Referenz-Traditions-Jahrgänge des Clos rouge munden ebenso wie die andere Segmente in rot, rosé und weiß. Alle Calissanne-Weine sind von der sonnigen Hanglage des Weinguts verwöhnt und ihre Gewinnung stammt aus 40 Jahre alten Weinreben. Ein Highlight ist der weiße Clos Victoire 2013, der nicht nur mit einem blumigen Bouquet und einem Hauch von Haselnuss und Honig aufwartet. Man schmeckt die für manche doch eher ungewöhnliche Tatsache, dass dieser Weiße im Fass gekeltert wurde. Als ein außergewöhnlich reichhaltiger Speisewein streichelt er den Gaumen erstaunlich würzig.
Es muss also zum Wintermenü nicht immer ein Roter sein. Aber gerne ein Klassiker: So präsentieren sich in Rot und Weiß die berühmten Châteauneuf du Pape-Weine aus dem zweiten Schloss. Der Pierre Troupel, der aus jungen Reben sowohl zu Rot – als auch zu Weißwein gekeltert wird, ist (man staune) bereits als Jungwein mit einem hervorragenden Bouquet zu servieren. Als Rotwein schmeichelt er sanftmundig durch seine Him- und Johannisbeer-Noten. Als Weißwein besticht er durch sein cremiges Bouquet mit zarten Pfirsicharomen, die sich angenehm frisch und lebendig auf den Gaumen legen. Ein kräftiger, ausgesprochen mineralischer Wein.
Und die Krönung: Der Rotwein „La Clef de St Thomas rouge“ ist, wie es einem Châteauneuf du Pape gebührt, aus einer Selektion von sehr alten Reben gekeltert. Der Weißwein bietet eine angenehm aromatische Komplexität und eine mineralische Textur. Alle Weine – und das ist nur ein kleiner Ausschnitt – werden direkt im Château in Flaschen abgefüllt und bis zu 16 Monaten gelagert. Im Herzen der Provence, an den Ufern der Meeresbucht „Etang de Berre“ (38 Kilometer von Marseille und 28 Kilometer von Aix-en-Provence) gelegen, umfasst das „calissannische“ Weinreich mehr als 1200 Hektar. Das mediterrane Klima und der kalkhaltige Boden bieten die perfekten Voraussetzungen für seine hauseigenen Produkte. So schön dieses Anwesen auch von den Fotos erscheint, mit einer Produktion von 68.000 Litern Olivenöl und 750.000 l Flaschen Wein, erahnt man wieviel Arbeit und Herzblut hinter einer Winzerei dieser Größe und Qualitätsanspruch stehen.
Die 3 Callisson-Olivenölsorten „Font de Leu“ et „Les Merveilles“ „Sainte Modeste“
Und neben all dem hervorragenden Wein, gibt es ja auch noch das flüssige Gold: Gleich drei Sorten Olivenöl stehen für die Shopbesucher in AOP- und AOC-Qualität zur Verkostung bereit. Neben dem würzig-fruchtigen „Font de Leu“ punktet „Les Merveilles“ mit seinen frischen Geschmacksnoten nach Zitrusfrüchten, Blumen und Linde, wartet der „Sainte Modeste“ mit einem Geschmack nach schwarzen Oliven, Trüffeln und einem Hauch Kakao auf. Ach ja: Den gutseigenen Honig mit Aromen von Thymian und Rosmarin produzieren etwa 150 heimische Bienenvölker. Und wem all die guten, Altar-ähnlich aufgebahrten Tropfen nicht ausreichen, der findet noch eine Auswahl an provenzalischen Feinkostprodukten, sowie originelle, französische Deko- und Kunsthandwerkobjekte als ideale Geschenke für Unter-den-Weihnachtsbaum.
Die charismatische Winzerin, die mit einem Deutschen verheiratet war, verbindet eine spezielle, fast magnetische Beziehung zu Berlin. Auch ihr Sohn studiere in der deutschen Hauptstadt und plötzlich komme da vieles zuammen. Und sie verrät, dass sie vor vielen Jahren mit ihrem mittlerweile verstorbenen Mann Philippe Kessler schon in der Hauptstadt gewesen sei: „Berlin ist für mich eine faszinierende Stadt. So als habe alles seinen richtigen Zeitpunkt, sind wir jetzt endlich mit dem ersten ausgelagerten Fachgeschäft nach Berlin gekommen. Weil spekulieren darauf, dass die Berliner mittlerweile Frankreich, der Provence und unseren Produkten gegenüber aufgeschlossen sind – die Qualität zu schätzen wissen. Es ist also eine gegenseitige Liebe,“ schwärmt die Winzerin, die Berlin sicherlich auch als einen inspirierenden Kontrastort zu ihren beiden Bilderbuch-Weingütern empfindet. Wem es zu weit ist sie dort einmal zu besuchen, dem sei provence-sonnig-wärmstens die Berliner Boutique Château Calissanne & Domaine Clef de St Thomas empfohlen.
Text: Anke Sademann
Fotos: Anke Sademann, Château Calissanne
Der Weinladen befindet sich in der Fasanenstraße 33 a
Öffnungszeiten sind Montags, Dienstags, Donnerstags, Freitags: 11 Uhr bis 19 Uhr
Samstag: 10 – 18 Uhr
Mittwochs geschlossen
Es empfängt Sie – avec plaisir – Monsieur Dominique Parisi:
Leiter Boutique Calissanne Deutschland (Berlin)
Tel.: + 49 (30) 88 70 88 78
boutique@chateau-calissanne.frE-mail: dominique.parisi@chateau-calissanne.de
Tel.: + 49 (30) 88 70 88 78
Handy: + 49 (0)152 03239429
https://www.chateau-calissanne.fr/de/weinhandlung-berlin/
Adresse Boutique Château Calissanne in Frankreich
Boutique Château RD n° 10
13680 Lançon-Provence
France
+33 (0)4 90 42 50 23 • laboutique@chateau-calissanne.fr
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