Made in Berlin:
Den Ledersportschuhen im Schaufenster des wohnzimmerartigen Ladengeschäfts in der Belziger Straße sieht man ihre über 100-jährige Geschichte nicht an. Neben den coolen Farben und den vier grafisch-ästhetischen Diagonal-Streifen erkennt man, selbst bei einem schnellen Blick durch´s Schaufenster die Hand verarbeitete Struktur. Geht man rein in den Laden und probiert ein Paar Zeha´s kommt noch das leichte Tragegefühl dazu.
Vier Streifen auf Wanderschaft
Zeha klingt zackig und zeitlos … Wer vor 1989 auf der „anderen Seite“ Berlins gelebt hat, schon laufen konnte und dort vielleicht sogar auf einem Fußballfeld rumgebolzt hat, erinnert sich noch bestens an die einstige Kult-Sportschuhmarke der DDR. Alle anderen sehen die Zeha´s mittlerweile immer häufiger im Strassenbild – denn die Berliner Marke hat in den letzten Jahren ein sympathisch-dynamisches Revival erlebt.
Die Geschichte des trendigen Edel-Sneakers geht bis 1862 zurück:
Im thüringischen Weida wurden die ersten Damen- und Herren-Lederwaren und Schuhe von Carl Häßner gefertigt – dessen Initialen lautmalerisch zu Zeha wurden. Die älteste Schuhfabrik des Landes ging schon damals mit der Zeit und modelte ihr Sortiment zu Sportschuhen für Leichtathleten später auch Fuß-, und Handball-kompatiblen Modellen um.
Zeha entwickelt sogar die ersten Fußballschuhe mit Nockensohle und Spikes aber auch die leichtesten Rennschuhe im internationalen Vergleich (sie wurden – für die DDR doch sehr exotisch aus Känguruleder gefertigt). 10 Jahre vorher gründete sich im Westen der heutige Sportschuh-Mogul Adidas (1940). Mit den „Parallel-Streifen“ einigte man sich friedlich. So lief der Ost – und der Westschuh in friedlicher Koexistenz über das Marktplatz-Parkett. Nur Sportler gab´s im Osten deutlich mehr. Und dann kam die Wende und damit auch das (vorläufige Ende) der Erfolgsmarke.
Bis in die 90 er Jahre – quasi als „Epoche Mauerbau- bis Fall“ dauerte die Zeha-Erfolgsgeschichte. Das Traditionsunternehmen schloss seine Pforten und der Schuh geriet in Vergessenheit – bis sich 2002 zwei Ost-Berliner Jungs – Alexander Barrée und sein Kumpel Torsten Heine – wieder daran erinnerten. Sie fanden zufällig alte Modelle auf Flohmärkten, verknallten sich in die Treter mit Erinnerungswert, suchten weitere und taten schließlich sogar das alte Lager in Thüringen auf. Sie kauften es schließlich samt der alten Schnitte und Leisten auf und erwarben die Markenrechte, um mit viel Recherche, Experimenten und optimistischem Gründermut zu erfolgreichen !! – damals wie heute mutigen Schuhfabrikanten zu werden. Angelehnt an das ursprüngliche Design mit den typischen zwei Doppelstreifen, haben die Newcomer die Sneaker-Linien „Carl Hässner“, „Trainer“ und „Streetwear“ kreiert, die von den Lederschuhen „Urban Classic“ ergänzt wird. „Alle unsere Linien sind handgefertigt aus Vollleder und am Produktionsstandort unseres Vertrauens in Portugal hergestellt. Nicht für jedermann, sondern für Menschen mit Stil und Anspruch“, beschreibt Barré – ein ehemaliger Messebauer – seine Marken-Philosophie.
Mittlerweile haben die neuen Inhaber nicht nur den Zeha-Kultschuh wieder aufgelegt und an die heutige Fußform (ja tatsächlich) angepasst, es gibt ihn auch in vielen unterschiedlichen Modell-, Stil- und Farbvarianten und natürlich mit den vier Streifen. „Hunderte Designs standen uns aus dem Carl Hässner Archiv zur Verfügung. Am liebsten wollten wir alle neu auflegen, entscheiden uns aber vorerst für Lauf- und Trainingsschuhe und die Handballer-Schuhe „Tempo“ & „Finalist“, so der Unternehmer. Mit Modellen für Sportarten, wie z.B. Turnierangelschuhe oder Fechtschuhe erweiterten die beiden Berliner dann Stepp by Stepp ihr Sportschuhsegment. Einer der Jungs – Alexander Barrée – ist bis heute der neue Markenvater. Sein Kompagnon Torsten Heine ist 2013 ausgestiegen und geht (garantiert immer noch mit dem richtigen Schuhwerk) eigene Wege.
Viele Berliner*innen haben Zeha mittlerweile wiederentdeckt – mögen die taffen & farbenfrohen Styles der Streetwear- oder Carl Häßner Kollektion – modern, fresh oder klassisch & das wichtigste: aus Berlin. Aber der Zeha Berlin wird mittlerweile auch in anderen Städten wie Hamburg, München oder Mannheim – in den typischen Cosy-Style-Shops vertrieben: Mit individuellem Konzept und thematischen Looks erzählt jeder der Zeha Stores Berlin-Geschichte: mal als Turnsalon mit alten Sportgeräten, mal im Stil einer authentischen Schuhmacher-Manufaktur oder im Retro-Wohnzimmerambiente.
Seit die Stadt Berlin selbst wieder eine Marke ist, wird auch der Berliner Sneaker weltweit getragen (Japan, USA, Kanada u.a.). Ergänzt wird das Sortiment durch eine Accessoire- & Reise-Taschen-Kollektion, Socken, Sandalen, Pumps und Halbschuhe aus italienischem Nappa- oder Glattleder. Im Sportsegment ist ein Radschuh in Planung. Preislich liegen die Schuhe bei 150,- – 250.- € und es gibt eine wechselnde Sommer- und Winterkollektion.
Text: Anke Sademann
Fotos: Zeha Berlin
Hier die 3 wichtigsten Berliner Läden
Zeha Store Kreuzberg
Friesenstraße 7
10965 Berlin
Tel +49 30 69538855
store-kreuzberg@zeha-berlin.de
Mo – Fr 11 – 19 Uhr
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Zeha Store Prenzlauer Berg
Prenzlauer Allee 213
10405 Berlin
Tel +49 30-44034607
store@zeha-berlin.de
Mo – Fr 12 – 20 Uhr
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Zeha Schöneberg
Belziger Str. 21
10823 Berlin
Tel +49 30-78950993
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