Die Provinz Nuoro im nordöstlichen Teil Sardinien hat etwas von einem hinterwäldlerischen Mantra, das man leise vor sich hin summt, während man den Blick über die ehrliche Schönheit der Region schweifen lässt. Beruhigend wirkt diese topografische Redundanz der karstigen, wie mit einem grünen, wilden Flies überwachsenen Landschaft. Sie verdichtet sich in den Tälern und urigen Dörfern, um sich auf den angrenzenden, bergigen Barbagia-Hochebenen wieder zu weiten. Nachdem seit den 60er Jahren auf der Fischer- und Hirteninsel Sardinien an den Küsten viel verbaut wurden, erkannte man in Nuoro rechtzeitig die Notwendigkeit diesen Landstrich zu schützen, in seiner Urlandschaft zu erhalten und seine landestypischen Traditionen über einen „sanften Tourismus“ zu bewahren. Dazu gehören auch bauliche Auflagen, bröselige Häuser wieder originalgetreu zu restaurieren und nicht wie bisher einfach abzureissen. Während sich in Porto Cervo, dem Zentrum der angrenzenden, schicken Costa Smeralda, ein regelrechtes Ballungszentrum von Mehrsterne-Hotels zum neuen Hotspot des internationalen Jet Sets etabliert hat, wird in Nuoro die Zeit einfach wieder zurückgedreht. Ein wunderbares Kontrastprogramm.
© Anke Sademann
Die gebirgigen Landstriche im Hinterland lassen sich zu Fuß oder Fahrrad erkunden, sind aber teilweise so wild und unerschlossen, dass man sich über das Tourismusbüro eine der geführten Touren empfehlen lassen sollte. Das 850 Hektar große Naturschutzgebiet Oasi di Bidderosa durchradelt sich vorzugweise via E-Bike mit einem Zwischenstopp an den langen Picknick-Tischen. Ein wilder Wald aus Ginepro- (eine inseltypische Wacholderart, aus der auch Möbel gefertigt werden), Eukalyptus- und Pinienbäumen umrahmt die fast unberührt scheinende Lagunen-Urlandschaft. Gemäß den neuesten Wassersporttrends gleiten hier statt Motorbooten nur ein paar Kanus oder Stand Up Paddler durchs glasklare Wasser. Ohne Lärm – ohne Spuren.
© Anke Sademann
Unweit des Naturparcours beginnt der Golf von Orosei, dessen Markenzeichen eine von kleinen Grotten durchzogene Buchtenlandschaft ist, die nur mit Booten erreichbar ist. Eine spezielle lila Alge umsäumt die steinernen Grottenportale wie eine Schmuckbordüre. Zahlreiche Bötchen ankern vor den von pavillonartigen Steinhöhlen zerfurchten Strandabschnitten. Direkt vom Boot ins knallblaue Wasser zum Baden zu hüpfen ist die Devise. Wer kein eigenes besitzt, der bucht sich einen Wassertour-Guide wie den redseligen Francesco vom Bootsverleih Sweetsummer. Vom Hinterland und dem Küstenörtchen Cala Gonone, an denen es die schönsten Strände der Insel gibt, ist man nur einen Steinwurf von der frei zugängigen „Grotta di Sa Oche“ entfernt. Zu ihrem unterirdischen See – ein natürlicher Wasserspeicher der Region – ist man in nicht mal 10 Minuten heruntergestiegen.
© Anke Sademann
Lila Algen umsäumen die Grotten im Golf von Orosei © Anke Sademann
Das Wandern auf den relativ unerschlossenen Höhenzügen des Treckinggebietes Valle di Lanaitto ist nur mit einem gebuchten Wanderführer erlaubt. Unser Tipp: Die Tourguides der Barbagia Insolita – das Schweizer Ehepaar Gassmann bietet geführte, deutschsprachige Touren (auch mit dem Jeep) an. Voller Geschichten und Munkeleien sind die prähistorischen, geheimnisvollen Ausgrabungsstätten der sardischen Nuraghen im Dorf Villaggio Preistorio di Sa Sedda De Sos Carros über die das Paar höchst interessante Hintergründe zu erzählen hat. Diese Wiege Ur-Sardiniens manifestiert sich in den kreisrunden Stadtanlagen und Grabstätten, die die Spuren einer Hochkultur aus der Zeit von 7.-9. Jhdt.v.Chr. bezeugen.
Ausgrabungsstätte der Nuraghen 7. -9. Jhdt. v.Chr. ©Anke Sademann
Auch in Sardinien gilt die Regel: Wer das Ursprüngliche sucht, der schlage sich durch´s Hinterland.
REISE TIPP: HERBSTFEST AUTUNNO BARBAGIA
vom 1. September bis zum 16 Dezember 2018
32 Dörfer öffnen ihre Höfe und präsentieren sardische Traditionen und Gewerbe
Antonella´s Safran und Olivenöl
Traditioneller Hutmacher
Cortes heissen die offenen Höfe Fotos ©Anke Sademann
Ein echtes herbstliches Highlight für Kurzentschlossene ist das ab Spätsommer bis Mitte Dezember an 16 Wochenenden zelebrierte „Cortes Apertas“ – „Offene Höfe“ Fest im Osten der Insel. Der „Autunno in Barbagia“ wird von der lokalen Handelskammer „Cuore della Sardegna“ (Herz von Sardinien) dieses Jahr bereits zum 23. Mal in einem Verbund von 32 urig-beschaulichen, mittelalterlichen Dörfern veranstaltet. Als Gegenpol zum costa-smeraldischen High-Society-Gebar werden hier die Traditionen der alten Gewerbe, ihre Geschichten und das Wissen der letzten Zeitzeugen wiederbeleben und bekannt gemacht. Die Region Barbagia liegt in einer durch Landwirtschaft und Schäferei geprägten Hochebene und bietet eine perfekte, fast archaische Kulisse. Viele Dörfer liegen abgeschieden in dem von karstiger Rauheit geprägten Hirtenland, in dem das (Über-) Leben anno dazumal sicher nicht einfach war. Neben den Dorfältesten, die gleichmütig auf den Bänken sitzen und die Fremden beäugen, trifft man in der örtlichen Peripherie auch mal auf Mufflons, Esel oder sogar Wildpferde.
Buntes Treiben auf dem Marktplatz von Oliena ©Anke Sademann
© Anke Sademann
Was zunächst eher familiär, für die Bevölkerung (vielleicht auch als pädagogische Maßnahme für die prossima generazione di sardegna?) und ein paar Insider-Touristen konzipiert wurde, öffnet seit ein paar Jahren langsam auch dem Individual-Tourismus die Tore. An den 16 Wochenenden der Herbstmonate geht der Turnus durch ein bis drei Dorfzentren mit den pragmatisch kurz klingenden Namen Aritzo, Bitti, Dorgali, Fonni, Gavoi, Meana Sardo, Ovodda, Oliena (wo alles begann), Orgosolo, Tonara, Teti, Tiana. … Z … Wenn die alten, zumeist privaten und sonst der Öffentlichkeit verschlossenen Häuser, die sogenannten „Cortes“ mit ihrer abgeblätterten Patina-Ästhetik für eine kurze Zeit geöffnet werden, taucht man filmreif in die Authentizität des Landes. Die ganze Dorfbevölkerung ist auf den Beinen. Es ist ein kunterbuntes, lebendiges Treiben. Eingebettet von den zu dieser Zeit herbstlichen Farben der Kastanien- und Haselnusswälder des Umlands wirkt das Fest wie aus dem Bilderbuch gefallen. Während unter der Woche die Arbeit auf den Weiden und Feldern, Weinbergen und Olivenhainen weitergeht, feiert man bis vor Weihnachten die Ernte der Spätjahres Früchte mit dem Fest Autunno Barbagia. Jedes Dorf erinnert sich an Althergebrachtes und präsentiert sich stolz mit seinen ganz eigenen kulturellen und gastronomischen Eigenheiten. Initiiert wurde das Fest bereits 1996. In diesem erstaunlich dicht frequentierten Rhythmus, wird es von den Bewohnern ritualisiert und treu angenommen. Der Alltag ist sehr arbeitsintensiv und mitten im Jahr besuchen sich die Dörfer untereinander so gut wie nie. Umso euphorischer und ausgelassen feiert man sich und die anderen zu diesem besonderen Jahresausklang.
Elisa und Alessia mit ihren Töchtern Alice und Luzia in traditionellen Trachten von Oliena ©Anke Sademann
Rosella und Ariane ©Anke Sademann
Neben allerlei folkloristischer Vorführungen mit viel Tanz und Gesang entdecken Besucher alte Gewerbe wie Textilfärbungen mit Safran, Hutmacher, Schnitz- und Webkunst oder Lederschusterei. Der „Offenmündige“ kommt in den Genuss von Käseherstellung, Brotbacken und Weinpressen. Kostet sich durch traditionelle Produkte wie Berghonig, Olivenöl, Kastanien, Datteln oder Nüsse aber auch die sehr speziellen, teilweise etwas gewöhnungsbedürftige kulinarischen Spezialitäten. Ein visuelles Spektakel sind die gefüllten Käseteigtaschen „Seadas“ (mit Pecorino-Hartkäse vom Schaf und Zitronenrieb ), die fritiert und süß mit Honig serviert werden. Die mit Ricotta (Frischkäse aus junger Schafsmilch) gefüllten „Casadinas“ – werden von den Dorffrauen am offenen Feuer gebacken. Ein eher olfaktorisches Aha-Erlebnis bietet wohl einer der exotischsten Produkte: der schon durch seinen Geruch äußerst befremdliche „Casu Marzu“ (Verdorbener Käse) – ein durch Fliegeneier bzw. Maden reifender“ Hirtenkäse, der eher unter dem Ladentisch zur Verkostung für Mutige angeboten wird und nicht verkauft werden darf. Einst hat er den armen, aber erfindungsreichen Hirten über die darbenden Tage geholfen. Zum süßen Abgang trägt der „Torrone Sardo“ ein Mandel-Honig-Nougat bei.
Maria Lucia Moro backt knusprige Casadinas am offenen Feuer ©Anke Sademann
Torrone Sardo – der sardische Honig-Mandel-Nougat
Besonders zu Ehren kommt in ganz Sardinien die Trachtenkultur, die von Frauen wie Männern aller Generationen mit Stolz getragen wird. Die bunten, floralen Stickereien sind neben den liebevoll geschmückten Ständen und zentralen Marktplätzen ein besonders lebensfroher Blickfang. Alles ist Handarbeit (die Trachten werden von den Dorffrauen im Hinterland teilweise noch täglich getragen) und zum Fest auch von den Jungen mit Stolz präsentiert. Kinder und Jugendliche tanzen ausgelassen oder treiben und reiten ihre Esel und Pferde durch die Stadt.
Wer das Erlebte ethnographisch vertiefen möchte, besucht in der weniger pittoresken „Hauptstadt“ Nuoro das Völkerkunde-Museum, in dem neben Trachten, landestypische Musikinstrumente und andere Handwerkskünsten aus jedem örtlichen Winkel gezeigt werden. Ein Highlight sind die Vitrinen mit „Pane degli sposi“ – eine sardische Brotbacktechnik mit Symbolornamentik für feierliche meist religiöse Anlässe jeglicher Art.
Sardische Brotbackkunst: Pane degli Sposi
Unsere Top-Empfehlung: Übernachten und Schlemmen im Experience Hotel SU GOLOGONE in Oliena
Experience Hotel Su Gologone Fotos: ©Anke Sademann
In Oliena betreibt die Künstlerin Giovanna Palimodde mit ihrem Mann das nachhaltig konzipierte Experience-Hotel Su Gologone. Jedes Zimmer, jeder Gastraum, jede thematische Terrasse (z.B. Terrasse der Wünsche mit Wunsch-„Glasurne“) oder Sitznische ist eine Schmuckschatulle. Neben Original-Folklore Textilien und dekorativ exponierte Kunsthandwerks-Originale und Skulpturen, sind im weitläufigen Hotel auch die neu interpretierten Artefakte der Hausherrin zu bewundern. In ihrer eigenen farbenfrohen „Botteghe d´arte – Kollektion kreiert sie floral bestickte Textilien aller Art, handbemalte Keramik, Ziersteine, Kücheninventar, Möbel, Kissen, Schmuck und vieles mehr. In einem Shop nebst Atelier und prima Ausblick sind sie zu erwerben. Das Hotel ist ein Füllhorn voller Ideen. Daran angeschlossen ist eine terrassenartig angelegte mehrere Hektar große Parkanlage, die wie in einer Freiluft-Galerie aus Steinmosaiken bäuerlichen Motiven, kunstvollen Holzschildern und Metallskulpturen zum Flanieren einladen. Mit Liegen und kuscheligen Kissen ausgestattete, laden offene und lauschig versteckte Sitznischen dazu ein, bis tief in die Nacht an den Feuerschalen zu chillen und den Sternenhimmel oder bestenfalls sein Gegenüber anzuhimmeln. Romantikfaktor: volle Punktzahl. Selbstversorgergärten und traditionelle Brotbäckereien (Showbacken mit einheimischen Frauen!) bilden die landestypische Kulinarik ab.
Zungenschmelz: Ricotta-Soufflé ©Anke Sademann
Culurgiones – Sardische Ravioli mit Fregula ©Anke Sademann
Kleine Kunstwerke: Cuoricini della Sposa – knallbonbonartige, verzierte Konfekt-Pralinés ©Anke Sademann
Im Restaurant des Viersternehotels finden sich Köstlichkeiten à la carte. Dazu – wie zu jedem sardischen Essen wird das typische papierdünne, knusprige Fladen – und besonders haltbare Fischer- und Hirtenbrot Pane Carasau gereicht. Ein Schlückchen vom Vermentino – der typische Vino Bianco oder ein brokatroter „Cannonau di Sardegna Carros“ aus der nah gelegenen Winzerei Azienda Agricola Elli Puddu, die auch sardische Wurstspezialitäten herstellt runden und munden. Das idyllische Weingut in Oliena ist einen Besuch mit charmant begleiteter Degustation wert.
Der Tourismusverband wirbt neben dem Wiederbeleben der Bräuche und Mythen auch mit der Langlebigkeit der Sarden, die unweit der Region Nuoro als Lebensraum der Hundertjährigen bekannt ist. Die Vielschichtigkeit der Region (auf den zweiten Blick), die Lage zwischen rauem Hinterland und Küste, die Produkte und die ehrliche Küche machen aus Nuoro zu einer Region, die ihre Besucher still und fast ein bisschen ehrfürchtig werden lässt für die Kraft und den Zauber des mancherorts in Vergessenheit geratenen Althergebrachten.
Anfahrt: Wer sich noch kurzfristig für eine herbstliche Reise ins „echte“ Sardinien entscheidet, der fliegt mit Lufthansa (über Frankfurt) oder Eurowings (über Stuttgart) bis nach Olbia oder nimmt die Fähre ab Genua oder Civitavecchia.
Sardegna Turismo : Deutsche Tourismusseite Sardinien
Alle Informationen über das regionalen Tourismusamt Nuoro für alle logistischen Adressen und individuelle Touren: www.visitnuoro.com/en/
Alle Adressen „Autunno Barbagia“ Herbstfeste in der Barbagia auf einen Blick: www.cuoredellasardegna.it.
Ein paar Tipps für Touren zu Rad, zu Fuß und zu Boot
Radverleih und Radtouranbieter:
http://www.letsbikesardinia.com
Geführte, sehr ortskundige Wander- und Jeep-Exkursionen (Rolf und Ruth Gassmann): Barbagia Insolita / 0039-3338103084
Motorboot- Exkursionen (Francesco Patteri)
http://www.sweetsummer-orosei.com
Folklore-Design Experience Art-Hotel SU GOLOGOGNE
www.sugologone.it
Botteghe d’Arte ‘Su Gologone Style’
Weingut Azienda Agricola Puddu
Sardische Weine- und Wurstspezialitäten
Azienda Puddu
Extra-Tipp Zwischenstopp am Meer
Strand von Bari Sardo nahe des Hotels La Torre
Wem nach so viel Hinterland doch nach ein bisschen mediterraner Leichtigkeit am Meer ist dem sei das Hotel La La Torres Sardegna empfohlen – mit Lage zum Strand von Bari Sardo und einer hervorragenden landestypischen Küche.
Auf dem Weg zum Flughafen in Olbia: Zwischenstopp im Restaurant/ Strandcafé AQA 21 direkt am Strand bei Porto San Paolo (dodicipuntouno@gmail.com) mit Fisch-Spezialitäten frisch aus dem Sardischen Mare.
Text und Fotos: Anke Sademann
©Anke Sademann
©Anke Sademann
Venusschmuscheln aus der Lagune ©Anke Sademann
Reiseführer Tipp:
Sardinien von Eberhard Fohrer
Michael Müller Verlag, 672 Seiten, farbig, 329 Fotos, herausnehmbare Karte (1:300.000), 63 Detailkarten
ISBN 978-3-95654-612-9
Die Insel ist erheblich größer und vielschichtiger, als man beim ersten Kartenstudium vielleicht meinen könnte.Zudem bietet Sardinien viele Superlative: So findet man einige der schönsten Sandstrände des Mittelmeers, nicht weniger faszinierend sind die bizarren Granitbuchten der Gallura im Nordosten, aber auch die Tauchgründe und Surfspots rund um die Insel werden von Kennern seit langer Zeit geschätzt. Und von den zahllosen Tropfsteinhöhlen, die noch völlig unerforscht sind, war noch gar nicht die Rede.
Das Besondere entdeckt man auf Sardinien erst allmählich, wie das Schwemmland des Tirso mit seinen salzigen Lagunenseen und den rosafarbenen Flamingos oder das steile, weiß glänzende Dolomitmassiv des Supramonte, das als Rückzugsgebiet bedrohter Tierarten wie Geier, Adler und Mufflons bekannt ist.
Dabei werden von Eberhard Fohrer nicht nur die meist an der Küste liegenden touristischen Highlights ausführlich beschrieben, der Leser findet auch Hintergrundinfos für Ausflüge und längere Aufenthalte im Inselinneren.
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