Die gelernte Goldschmiedin Ulrike Hamm fertigt unter ihrem Label „Anmut und Kühnheit“ Licht, Schmuck und Bucheinbände aus echtem Pergament – ein in Vergessenheit geratenes Material der Antike. Dieses Jahr wurde die Künstlerin für ihre Arbeiten mit dem Preis für Angewandte Kunst der Berliner Volksbank ausgezeichnet.
Zum 15. Mal wurde der Preis für herausragende Leistungen vergeben. Die Bewertung „Die Schmuckobjekte aus eingefärbtem Pergament sind handwerklich sehr spannend und ästhetisch. Die Produkteigenschaften des schmuckfremden, in Vergessenheit geratenen Materials Pergament genial umgesetzt. Unter ihrem Label Anmut-Kühnheit werden Häute auf der Haut zu eleganten Schmuckobjekten (…)“, erzählt bereits von ihrem besonderen Umgang mit diesem außergewöhnlichen Material. In der Antike wurde Echtes Pergament als wertvoller Beschreibstoff entwickelt. Rollen und Bücher mit sakralen Schriften und Bildern haben Jahrtausende über dauert. Trägermaterial von geschriebener Information löste das Pergament etwa 250 n. Chr. das Papyrus ab. Ausgangsmaterial sind Häute von Kalb, Ziege und Schaf. Während bei der Lederherstellung das Fasergeflecht durch Gerbstoffe chemisch verändert wird, um die Beweglichkeit der Fasern zu erhalten, wird genau dies beim Pergament gezielt vermieden. Durch die sorgfältige Trocknung der gespannten Haut erwirbt das Material seine einzigartigen Eigenschaften: Pergament ist leicht und elastisch, aber kaum dehnbar. Heute ist Echtes Pergament aus unserem Alltag fast verschwunden, denn die handwerkliche Herstellung ist aufwendig und teuer. Industriell gefertigte Kunststoffprodukte imitieren die technischen Eigenschaften und verbessern sie teilweise. Ist jedoch die Gleichzeitigkeit verschiedener Eigenschaften gefordert, ist das Naturmaterial – ein nach wachsender Rohstoff – vor allem auch unter dem Gesichtspunkt der Nachhaltigkeit meist überlegen.
Für die Materialauswahl reist die Designerin regelmäßig zum Hersteller und sichtet stundenlang Hunderte von Häuten, die sich zur Weiterverarbeitung eignen. Da die Anatomie, das Leben und die Verarbeitung ihre Spuren hinter lassen haben können nur bestimmte Partien einer Haut verwendet werden – eine Auswahl, die viel Erfahrung voraus setzt.
Viele Arbeiten der Künstlerin in einem Wiederverwertungskreislauf angelegt: Die Schirme der Leuchten werden beispielsweise aus wiederverwendeten Pergamenten aus dem Musikinstrumentenbau hergestellt. „In der Fläche gefaltet, entstehen Höhen und Tiefen, die in Verbindung mit Licht zu einem wunderbaren Erscheinungsbild führen. Das Zusammenspiel von Echtem Pergament und Eisen – zwei so gegen sätzlichen Materialien – zeigt eine zugleich elementare wie feine und reduzierte Formen sprache“, beschreibt Ulrike Hamm ihre Arbeit.
Um Interessierte an ihren Arbeitsprozessen „hautnah“ teilhaben zu lassen, eröffnete sie bereits 2014 ihre Berliner „Werkstatt für Echtes Pergament“, in der sie auch Workshop anbietet. In den offenen Räumen können die Kursteilnehmer Entwerfen, Material zurichten, Färben oder auch Goldschmieden. Der Raum ist Atelier, Werkstatt und Laden gleichermaßen. Eigene Arbeiten sowie Arbeiten von Kollegen und Gästen rund um das Thema Echtes Pergament und Angewandte Kunst werden zusätzlich in kurzen Ausstellungen gezeigt.
Text: Anke Sademann
Fotos: Anmut und Kühnheit
Alle Informationen unter: www.anmut-kuehnheit.de
Kontakt: 030-69534120 oder u.hamm@anmut-kuehnheit.de
Die Werkstatt für Echtes Pergament befindet sich im Aufbau Haus am Moritzplatz in der Prinzenstraße 85C / Hauptzugang C2, über die große Treppe
Anfahrt : U 8 / Bus M 29 Haltestelle Moritzplatz
Öffnungszeiten: Dienstag bis Freitag 12 – 18 Uhr und nach Vereinbarung
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